A few people have asked me to show step by step how I do segmented woodturnings. So here it is. This project is a segmented vase  with 2 segmented rings and a staved neck added to a hollow form.
   It might be a good project for a beginning segmentor as theres not a lot to it.
    I also wrote a how to on inlaying which you can find
here.  If anyone needs more info on this process I would be glad to help out if I can.   Thanks , Bob
Big leaf maple burl segmented bottle
Click on any picture for a larger view
project parts needed
This first picture shows all parts needed to complete this turning. First I turned the base . It is 6 " in diameter and 4" tall and was hollowed through a 2" hole. Around the hole I turned a flat to receive the first ring. It's important that this is accurate or the ring won't seat properly.
  If you enlarge the picture you will see a pencil line used to align the first ring.
segmented rings
The next step is to build the rings. Both rings in this project are the same.
To determine the angle of the segments count how many cuts you will be making. In this case we are using an 8 sided ring so we will be making 16 cuts. ( You can actually make the ring with half that many cuts but make believe you cut both sides of each segment.) 360 degrees divided by 16 = 22.5 degrees, This is the cut angle.
  Next we need a segment length. Draw an arc (quarter circle) on the corner of a piece of paper the radius of your ring. In this case the ring is 3.5" in diameter so the radius is 1.75". Now draw a line through this arc from the corner of the paper the correct angle.  In this case  with 8 segs the angle is 45 degrees.
  360 degrees divided by 8 = 45. Now measure on top of the arc from the edge of the paper to the line. This is the segment length. The segment depth for this project is 1.25" and the height is normal 1x material.  I don't go through this process for every turning as I have a graph with quarter circles from 2.5" to 12" and just drop my ruler on to take the length measurment.
   Never use Pi (3.14159++++) to determine segment length as it will not work. If you do a project and all your rings are figured with Pi you will be ok as long as you never pick up a ruler. The reason for this is that Pi measures the circumference of the circle. In segmenting were measuring to pieces with corners and they are longer. So if you measure a diameter on your turning and use Pi to make your ring it will be slightly smaller.
  This second picture shows the rings glued into 4 halves.
correcting a segmented ring
To glue the segments together I normally glue up half rings. The reason for this is any slight error in the segments can be corrected by truing them on the disc sander. I always use rings that add up to 180 degrees for a half ring. If you make a ring with 5 sides you can't get 180 degrees in a half ring.
   Most rings are cut parallel to the grain. This way you have no endgrain showing.
   To glue the segs together I put glue on all sides except the ones to be sanded. Rub the segs together untill the excess glue is gone and you feel resistance. It's important to have a flat surface for gluing. I don't use clamps wnen gluing segs together. This third picture shows a half ring being trued on the disc sander.
gluing the segmented ring
This fourth picture shows the first ring being glued on. I trued up one face prior to gluing with the disk sander. The tailstock is being used as a clamp. I don't usually do it this way but theres only three glu-ups in this project. If there were a lot of rings I would glue them off the lathe with weight used as a clamp.
  After the glue dries The face of the ring will be trued and the inside turned.
staved vase neck example
This fifth picture shows a cross section of the neck being glued to the previous ring. It has been trued with the miter saw. This is a joint that must not be starved for glue. Your gluing endgrain to facegrain. The insides of the neck pieces have all been squared when it was built but the outside was left alone because it will be turned anyways. The 4 pieces of maple were actually the corners of the blank that were cut off when I rounded the blank on the bandsaw. The strips of purpleheart were kept to the outside . A hole will be drilled through when the glue has dried.
staved vase project glueup completion
This last picture shows the whole glu-up. After the glue dries it will be taken off the lathe and set aside until the glue has a chance to cure.
  Ideally this should be at least two weeks and preferably longer.
  To see a large picture of the finished project click on the pic at the top  of this page.
      Building a segmented / staved vase
Big leaf maple burl
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